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Whenever assembling a roll of London’s finest restaurants, one might anticipate well-known Michelin-starred venues. Yet, nestled prominently among these food heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu situated in a distant part of north London.

An Shocking Honour

This compact Turkish spot, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the 4th finest restaurant in the metropolis by a respected culinary publication. The accolade has made the family totally surprised.

“I am utterly astonished,” remarks a owner’s son, referring to his parents’ relentless work that resulted in their modest place earning such a lofty ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

The little venue, which started as a basic cafe before its change into a sought-after destination, has retained much of its former character. It fits just more than 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking show, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy spot,” comments the owner.

The Signature Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it is all down to the cuisine, and this restaurant certainly excels. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a succulent consistency.

It is then tossed into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. As the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to take in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is folded tightly inside.

The wrap is usually enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a mighty punch of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A prominent food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is soaked in lighter syrup than is typical, giving it a richer, more aromatic and less sickly taste.

Outranking the Stars

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the top of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place stuffed for less than £25, equivalent experiences at high-end establishments can cost significantly more than that figure.

The Ethos of Heart

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is located well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I don’t believe in that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is most important is warmth, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is shared by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he was in a position of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London visit this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the pitfalls of excess, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

A Journey of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not work at fancy restaurants. “I am really happy of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants need years to become successful, but this one first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum would be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a social life but her friends would visit to help her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

A Recognition for the People

The restaurant’s recognition is set to echo beyond its own walls. “I think numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the wider significance of this gastronomic honour.